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Title: Bjorn's bloodletters step-by-step


God of war - April 4, 2012 07:58 PM (GMT)
Hello everybody,

here is how I painted my bloodletters step-by-step, photographed and a little explanation with each pic. I'll try to post my progress each day.

Let me know if you like it!

First step: a black basecoat:

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Then, a basecoat of mechrite red (foundation paint)

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This is washed with devlan mud. The amount you use, is up to personal preference and experience. I use a little water to not have a too dark undertone. But again, that's a personal preference. Badab black can be used too, but I find the contrast with the upper layers too harsh.

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God of war - April 5, 2012 08:05 PM (GMT)
Next step is redefining the model with a layer of red gore. You shouldn't leave too much of the devlan mud wash showing, as there are still 4 layers of skin tone following. Otherwise, the layering may prove too drastic (because you don't have enough space to layer/blend!):

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A pic of the stomachs:

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God of war - April 8, 2012 08:24 PM (GMT)
Next step is a layer of 1/1 red gore/blood red.

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Followed by blood red. Always keep in mind to paint thin, thus mixed with a little water.


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Another mix of 1/1 blood red and blazing orange, painted on the raised areas.

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Final layer is pure blazing orange. Mixed with 1/1 orange/water. Towards the upper areas the paint is put on thicker, providing a smooth transition.



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Moving onto the flames on the back and arms. They were painted alongside the skin. Further layers are applied in the following order: fiery orange and finally sunburst yellow.

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And a pic to show the differnce between models 4 layer ago :)

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Tomorrow the rest of the model!

Grisnik - April 9, 2012 10:30 AM (GMT)
The step by step is looking great so far mate.. can understand why it is taking 2 hrs per model.. such a labor of love there.. those final highlights really make the model pop though..

Hulabell - April 9, 2012 12:39 PM (GMT)
They look fantastic! The orange really helps the red look vibrant. Thanks for taking the time to post this for everyone. I've just aquired the new paint range so I'm interested to see how it will work in comparison to the older paints! :)

God of war - April 12, 2012 08:00 PM (GMT)
Thx guys :)

There's a chart in the last White dwarf that gives a conversion between old and new paints' names. Very useful! I'll try to upload a pic of the page this weekend.

Now, with a bit delay, the horns!

Starting with a clean-up basecoat of scorched brown:

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Then, a first layer of graveyard earth and a little scorched brown, starting close to the horns

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Now, we start blending from the base of the horns towards the top! Beginning with graveyard earth.

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And now we add a little bit of bleached bone each step, up to pure bleached bone

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Next up: the sword!

Stay tuned :)


gjnoronh - April 13, 2012 10:54 AM (GMT)
Good stuff.
I hope/think new paint line will make the red faster with the dry phase and then a glaze

Noisy Assassin - April 13, 2012 02:13 PM (GMT)
*drools*

God of war - April 18, 2012 08:17 AM (GMT)
Thx guys!

Next up: the blade.

First step is to work up the blade from black to scab red. Sterting from the hilt towards the top. First layer is scab red with a touch of black. Start applying this close to the hilt (paint was still wet in this pic):

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Then a layer of scab red. You can start wherever you want on the blade. I start the layer somewhere in the middle.


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Then the 'flash'. First step a reasonably broad line of red gore. The gore was painted on to the pointy sides of the blade too.A steady hand is required ( mine was not so in this pic :D ). If it slides a bit, no worries, there are other layers to fix this!

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Next line is blood red, abit less widely painted. Still over the whole blade, but less long. Some of the pointy sided of the blade are highlighted with this colour too.

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The same with blazing orange, each time shortening the line. This time I started with a gap between the 2 lines, but you can wait a step.

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Then, each of the two smaller lines is highlighted with: fiery orange, sunburst yellow, bad moon yellow and finally skull white!

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Next step: the metals!

themanbelow - May 3, 2012 09:33 PM (GMT)
Thanks for the tutorial. I've tried to follow it but I'm thinking it's way too advanced for me to replicate.

However on the off chance you can give me any tips or help then I'd be most grateful.

I suppose in summary my attempt just has 'splodges' of colour here and there. Usually I just keep washing my models, so they get an even coat, but with this technique it just looks like a 5 year old has attacked it with different colour paint.

After the first few layers where areas begin to change colour (after the devlan mud wash basically) Is the idea to use a fine detail brush and leave certain areas 'untouched'? Such as the back and pimples?

I seem to just 'go over' these with the new colour and lose the darker definition you have. I've tried watering my paint down more, but that makes it even worse and just seeps into the nooks. Should I be drying the brush off more???

Sorry to ask so many dumb questions but Im wondering whether I should just continue with my original method as this is just too far out of reach and Id need at least some talent???

Thanks for any help.

God of war - May 4, 2012 07:53 PM (GMT)
Hello there, and thx for following my tutorial!

There are a few important things:

-the density of your paints. As you said, if you add too much water, it will seep everywhere and you have no control over where your paint fixes. This comes to experience. After some time, you'll get the hang of it, be patient!

How I do it: I take some paint out of the pot, spread it a bit onto my painting palette. Then I add some water, mix it a bit more, till I'm satisfied and only then it'll go onto the figure.

-The method of layering: the more layers, the smoother the blending. Keep your layers thin, patiently apply them. Always leave some of the previous layer showing, or you'll get too drastic differences. Layering doesn't always have to be equally evreywhere. But again, that's understanding the model. The back and pimples are indeed left alone after the wash.

-It's important to know that paint darkens after it dries. Your highlight may look harsh when wet, but come out great when dry!


I understand the technique you're trying, but washing is most of the times a supportive technique, meant to smooth out or get colour hues.

I'm going to try that technique out on my GuO. tarting with a very light tone, like rotting flesh and then washing with different colours.


Hoe that helps, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask them. I'll help if possibel!

Greetz, Bjorn.




deathphoenix - May 4, 2012 08:11 PM (GMT)
Wow, awesome tutorial. Definitely going to refer to this when I get into painting my bloodletters.

God of war - May 5, 2012 09:39 AM (GMT)
Thx,

I'll post a step-by-step on the skull base too soon!

Greetz, Bjorn.




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