Fun Fly Wildcat - It's Done! 7/02/11, Designed by the late Vance Mosher

Not yet. Finishing up loose ends before starting the covering. I had to bend and cut the 1/8" Elevator Joiner Wire, then drill out and file the holes to accept it. All while running my desktop computer to edit some videos for a client. Photos later this afternoon .

I actually did this yesterday, but didn't get to editing the photos until this morning. I had to bend and cut a length of 1/8" wire as a joiner for the two Elevator halves. Then I had to mark the location of the wire on the Elevators and drill holes to accept it and file a groove along the leading edge for it to sit into.



My vise allowed the wire to bow a bit too much in the middle, but it'll work. I'd rather have had nice 90 degree bends with a slight radius, but oh well.

Once marked, I set each piece in a jig on my Drill Press so I could plunge the bit into the Leading Edge without straying, checking the angle of the bit against the piece with a square.



Then I took the pieces outside to work on them, using a file to make a groove and also to shape the radius where the bend is. Eventually I got it all to fit nicely. After covering, and as I'm doing the hinging, I'll glue the wire in with epoxy.





I also located and drilled the holes in the landing gear to mount them to the fuselage. I used a Great Planes Hole Locator to mark the holes in the gear, and again on the fuselage. I also used it to locate and drill the holes for mounting the engine. I drilled the holes in the Landing Gear with my Drill Press, but I had to drill the holes in the fuselage with my Cordless Drill because I couldn't hold the fuselage flat against the base and roll the drill down at the same time.







Then I could start preparing to cover . But first I needed to clear off the bench and vacuum a little .

This post has been edited by Tango Juliet on Jun 18 2011, 09:52 AM

COVERING ! This is when it finally starts to look like an airplane .

I've been covering now off and on for the last 20+ years, and I'm by no means an expert at it, but I have learned how to get a pretty decent finish (though my last covering job, on my glider, didn't turn out that good - I rushed it ). I've used all of the available iron on coverings at some point, and they all have pro's and con's. Monokote offers the most color choices and finishes (glossy or flat), and for this project I'm using Monokote.

After cleaning the bench of scraps and balsa dust (and vacuuming the floor ), I set out all the tools I'd need to do my covering job. One tip I picked up a long time ago was to use a sheet of glass on top of my bench to cut the covering film on. It makes cutting it really easy. The other tools I have handy are my Covering Iron (and Trim Iron), a Coverite Pocket Thermometer (Monokote needs about 275F), Heat Gun, a #11 Knife Handle and plenty of #11 Blades. Monokote - any film covering - will dull knife blades quickly, but not to the point that they can't be used to cut other materials. As soon as you feel it wanted to tug rather than slice, change the blade . I also have a 16" Metal Ruler and a Metal Yardstick. Here's another tip: Apply masking tape to the backside of your straightedge's to keep them from marring your covering. Something else handy to have near is a fine point black Sharpie for marking cut lines on your covering. I didn't use one for my initial pieces, but might need it when I start to cut trim pieces.



I even made a few short videos for those that don't have any experience with covering at all, to teach you some of the basic stuff. (No laughing! - Well OK, if you must , just remember these are for the Novice's not the "Old Hat's" )

Covering Horizontal Stab (Part 1)

Covering Horizontal Stab (Part 2)

Covering Horizontal Stab (Part 3)

Covering Rudder (Part 1)

Covering Rudder (Part 2)

Today I'll be finishing the covering and mounting all the surfaces and installing the engine and radio gear. It should be at the field tomorrow !

This post has been edited by Tango Juliet on Jun 18 2011, 10:17 AM

It's taking me longer than anticipated . I hate cutting CA Hinge slots . I may have it at the field tomorrow, but it probably won't be ready to fly.

I had really hoped to be further along with it by this point . I haven't finished my color scheme yet, but it's looking good . Still missing are the 'Roundels' from the wings and fuselage and the 'U.S. NAVY' from the bottom of the wing. Then I still need to install the radio gear and engine. I'm still hoping to be done with it before I go to work on Tuesday afternoon, because when I get back from work I'll be starting a new build. A Skybench Sky Bird glider !

Here are a few progress shots for the time being...

Looks good TJ

Some people don't do the overlaps properly, with bad results.
And you covered that in your videos.

I always mention to people that when covering with MonoKote or other films there's one simple, but important, rule:

Start covering the plane — or parts of the plane (wings, tail feathers) — from REAR TO FRONT, from BOTTOM TO TOP.

This will ensure that all overlaps are in the proper direction relative to airflow.

Nicely detailed build sequence, TJ!

Fantastic shots on the build TJ!!

I keep forgetting how long it takes to do all the little stuff ! I spent most all of this afternoon just finishing the color scheme, to the point where I can hardly see straight .

First order of business was to copy patterns for the Roundels that would go on the wing tips, both top and bottom, and two smaller ones that go on the forward fuselage. The best technique I've found for cutting pieces of Monokote for making trim and details is to tape your material to a sheet of glass. For the Roundels, I left the backing on the Monokote and laid the material finish side down on the glass. The reason for this is that the finish side of the Monokote kind of sticks to the glass like cling wrap, so it doesn't move and lays nice and flat to cut on.





The Stars and the Red Centers were cut the same way, from the same patterns. Then I removed the backing and laid them over the Blue Backgrounds. Just like with the glass, they 'cling' to each other just enough to position them. Then, I turn down the heat on the iron to about 225-230F and 'tack' the centers and stars to the background. You may get air bubbles between the layers. Judicious use of either a sharp needle, or the tip of a new #11 blade to slightly puncture the bubble will allow the air to escape, but the hole is small enough for the adhesive to seal it shut again.





The bottom of the wing also has "U.S. NAVY" in black lettering across it span-wise between the Roundels, and it was cut in the same manner. However, these I had to remove the backing of the Monokote and lay it adhesive side down to cut it, otherwise all the lettering would be in reverse (I actuall started to do it this way and caught myself just in time ). One more thing I wanted to add were some identification markings to the side of the fuselage, however, the plans didn't include a pattern for these so I had to make my own using the 'TLAR' method (That Looks About Right ). Once all these extras were made, it was time to apply them. I almost royally screwed up . I started to apply the 'Top' wing roundels using the bigger Monokote iron, on too high a heat setting and got big air bubbles and wrinkles. Then I switched to the Trim Iron set on 'Low' heat and things went much better. I was able to get most all of the air bubbles and wrinkles out, thank goodness .

(Remember Frits' advice: Bottom to Top, Back to Front! One reason is for getting a proper seal on the edges so the won't peal up in the slip stream, but also, mistakes aren't as visible on the bottom and by the time you get to the top, your technique should be better )







Well, that's all for this week. I have to go back to work tomorrow, so I won't get it finished until next Thursday probably. I've got to mount the wing and empenage, install the control horns, and install the radio components and engine. One thing I know I should have done and neglected it, was to run string inside the wings to facilitate installing the Aileron Servos. I can still do it, but it would have been much easier to do during construction.

See ya

Looks really good T.J.

A wheel collar with some string or floss tied to it always does a great job of finding its way through.

Thanks Mike.

Yep, that's how I do it. The biggest problem is that the opening in the ribs is forward of the servo locations in the 'D' Tube area where it's going to be hard to get it started, but not impossible. It just would have been much easier to have installed the strings during the build. I even thought about it while I was building the wing, but moved right along without doing it. That was a boneheaded mistake.

This post has been edited by Tango Juliet on Jun 21 2011, 05:54 AM

Is it done now?

Why did you have to remove the backing to do this? Whenever I cut shapes/lettering out like that I leave the backing on to keep from picking up dust or other debris on the back of the Monokote.

This makes me want to build something. I do have a new project en route, but it doesn't require any building.

You may not 'have' to remove the backing, but I find that the Monokote lays better against the glass without shifting if the clear backing is removed. Cleaning the glass before laying it down prevents dust and debris from being trapped underneath.

This post has been edited by Tango Juliet on Jun 22 2011, 12:22 PM

Is it done now?

I'm in the process of installing the radio gear now ! Someone remind me how to bind Futaba 2.4 Rx to TX. I forgot .

One thing about doing this is to be constantly thinking ahead. The Battery needs to be nestled into the area either fore or aft of the Switch on the left hand side before the Elevator Servo and Switch are finally mounted, otherwise you'll never get the Battery in! Same goes for the Rx on the right hand side. Guess how I know all this?

Never dealt with Futaba 2.4 so I'm no help there.

I know exactly what you're talking about with your other issue though. I've had more than a handful of flying wings and profile planes to have learned that lesson many times over. I wish I would have learned it the first time, but I just kept forgetting.

I still have so much to do to it. I haven't even installed the Wings, Horizontal Stab, or any of the control surfaces yet, and of course the control horns. Then I need to install the Engine and Fuel Tank and run the Elevator and Rudder pushrods. But it WILL be ready to go on Sunday! I really need to bind the Rx before I stuff it into the wing though .

A quick call to Rob confirmed my suspicions. The R6008HS Rx isn't compatible with the TM-7 Tx Module. I have the wrong Rx. I knew it looked a little different than the others I have, but though maybe it was just a new design. Another trip to HTUSA... .

Have I ever mentioned I love my Hitec 2.4 setup?

I was able to get some Chinese knockoff that was a LOT cheaper than the Futaba brand so I got money back . Right now the Fuselage is being glued to the wing with Epoxy. Tomorrow I'll finish installing the control surfaces and conrol rods, and engine and fuel tank. Tonight I'm heading out for and .